Beyond Biscotti

The practice of accompanying a cappuccino with a cookie has been popularized by Starbucks, which sells overly sweet, prepackaged biscotti. Let me offer you some toothsome variations on the caffeine-and-sugar theme.

If you can tear your eyes from the pastries at Tarallucci E Vino, you will notice some very special glass jars near the cashier. One is filled with torroncini. This orange-scented, honey-sweetened delight is halfway between an almond nougat candy bar and a cookie. A touch of black pepper renders it irresistible and addictive, but if you'd like something with more crunch, try the pepatelli: long, cinnamon-y almond cookies topped with a layer of meringue.

(If you can't tear your eyes from the pastries, by all means, succumb. There are chocolate-filled donuts, coronets, blueberry coconut cakes, eclairs, chocolate mousse and much more.)

Some afternoons find me in the long line at Crestanello, waiting to order some amaretti (three for $1) or pignoli with my cappuccino. The round amaretti are soft in the center and sugar-dusted, and the coffee is proudly custom-blended. (Crestanello is a great choice for a quick Italian lunch without table service. The cafe even imports its own olive oil.) I am the woman sitting near the front who can't restrain herself from eating the cookies before her penne al pomodoro.

Tarallucci E Vino, 163 First Ave., (212) 388-1190. Crestanello Gran Caffe Italiano: 475 Fifth Ave., (212) 545-9996.